Sunday, January 25, 2009
Notes from the Road - Final Edition
Shabbat was an incredible experience. On Friday night, we got dressed up, heard beautiful stories, and celebrated each others’ simchas (joyous occasions). After Shabbat services and dinner (in which Ava led the motzi blessing over the bread for the first time), people chose to take on Hebrew names in a beautiful ceremony where they were introduced by friends. People played improve games, and others practiced late into the night for bar and bat mitzvah ceremonies on Saturday. Following workshops and a beautiful hike, we had the opportunity to welcome 11 students as bar or bat mitzvah. From Goucher, Erin, Ava, and Melissa were celebrated, given strawberry candies (strawberry is a big theme of this bus!) and lifted up in chairs. Following a havdallah (leaving Shabbat ceremony) at the shores of the Galilee, we partied on a cruise around the sea.
Today, our group visited breathtaking Rosh Pina, the mystical city of Safed (Tzfat), and had a chance to go into two amazing homes – one was our tour educator, Chen’s, and the other was a Druze home. The Druze are an Arabic-speaking people who have their own interesting religion and customs. They serve in the Israeli army and are full citizens of Israel. Tomorrow we visit Tel Aviv, and will head to the airport after a concluding dinner. Our flight, El Al LY001 lands at JFK at 6 AM Tuesday. The group has really jelled and has become a family – it will be hard to leave, it’s unbelievable this trip has only been 10 days – and yet it’s flown by.
Read below for more student perspectives… Signing off for the final time!
Josh and Yona – The Goucher Hillel Staff
Participant Perspectives
This trip has been amazing so far, and even though a lot of words can’t really describe it, I’ll try to get in as many as I can. The first day was kind of a blur, a long flight followed by a long bus ride followed by a long day of getting settled in and meeting the many other people here from different schools. But today was totally different. We walked into the old city to the Kotel for Shabbat services, and we had the choice of participating by doing our own prayers if we wanted to. It was phenomenal. I never thought just being there would be so moving. The men and women who were at the wall seemed so at peace, not worrying or rushing, just concentrating on the importance of Shabbat. People see pictures of Israel on the news and on the internet all the time and think it’s such a horrible place to be right now, but they couldn’t be more wrong. Just standing at the Western Wall, reflecting on everything, made me forget about the problems that are happening and made me realize how beautiful this country is and how something as simple as standing there and thinking can be an extremely emotional experience. I can’t wait to experience more of this incredible country!
Sara Kay, Hofstra ‘10
Jan 18
Today several Israelis who are currently enrolled in the Israeli Defense Force, commonly referred to as the IDF, joined our Birthright 830 bus. When they arrived, we split into several smaller groups containing IDF soldiers and American students and were asked to write lists of the similarities which all of us shared. Although this activity was most likely intended to be a bonding experience and demonstrate just how similar young adults from across the globe are, it was a challenge to come up with characteristic traits which did not highlight our discrepancies. Opinions, hobbies and personality traits which were present amongst every American student and considered obvious similarities did not sync up with those of our new Israeli friends. For example, each us of made the assumption that the Israelis in our group would be excited about Bush’s last day in office and were shocked when the Israeli in our group did not feel the same way. When we asked our new Israeli friend whether she was also tired and wished to sleep more like all of us did, she said no. She told us that she rarely gets more than a couple of hours of sleep a night and is used to functioning when she is past the point of exhaustion. Being a young soldier in the IDF means that she lives a completely different life than the rest of us
The lifestyle of an Israeli soldier is just so different than ours!
personally found myself ideally would have the capacity to show us illustrate just how alike young Jewish adults from across the globe
couldn’t help but notice the discrepancies between
Rachel Levy
Jan 18
Yesterday was amazing. I had been rocked from my comfort zone and I didn’t mind it. We traveled to Mt. Hertzl Cemetery. The first part we saw a lot of historical monuments of extremely important people. The second and last part of the adventure we saw stones of soldiers that have died within this year. It broke my heart. As soon as I saw a picture of a man… no, a boy that had died in a time of my age and my lifetime, during the fight with Gaza I broke down. I cried my tears because I finally realized the terror and the constant struggle this country is going through. This is what I was waiting for. I wanted to understand this fight in Israel and to understand what these people are going through, to see it first hand and to experience it. It was a beautiful experience as the group fell silent and we reminisced on how our current political conflict came to light. And as I cried one very awesome Israeli soldier wrapped her arms around my waist and helped me calm down. I felt the love of a stranger and the beauty of this land. On this day, I fell deeply and emotionally in love with Israel.
Rachel Lipkin ‘12
January 19th
Today, I found myself overwhelmed with the connection I felt to the Holocaust museum in Jerusalem. My initial response was awe at witnessing the museum’s beauty. Despite the tragic subject matter at hand, the museum managed to present the information in a tasteful, sincere, and thought provoking way. There were photographs, movies, art-work, symbolic monuments, and a gorgeous landscape surrounding the museum.
The experience in the interactive computer room really stuck out for me because it allowed us to choose the questions we wanted answered about the Holocaust and Judaism. I loved working with a partner on this exercise because I found that we had a lot of the same questions, and the fact that my partner was an Israeli soldier made it even more interesting to me. The first question that we asked was: where was God was during the holocaust. The Rabbi on the program said that since we are flesh, we are not meant to understand the actions of the divine. Although I respected his opinion, my views, along with many of the views in my group, were very different. I think God existed with the survivors, the allies , the Jews that carried out the war saw uprising, Schindler and the many other gentiles and Jews that saved lives. As horrific as it is to think about, perhaps the Holocaust to happen in order for us all to learn and never allow anything like that to happen again. In this way God is still with us by giving us the insight to learn from the past and hopefully create a better future. The design of the museum reflects this belief; Dark at the entrance and light at the end, representing the past and the future.
The other question I found fascinating was about whether, or to what extent, anti-Semitism will continue in the future. The scholar who answered the question said that a major step in the process of mitigating prejudice was the creation of the modern state and nation of Israel. He said that so much of what contributed to anti-Semitism in the past was that the Jews didn’t have a homeland and were “wandering” in a sense. Jews had a hard-time connecting to a place and to each other. The fact that the people who were once dispersed now have nation of their own full of culture, prosperity, and military strength,, this helps to mitigate anti-Semitism because it inspires the world to notice and accept the Jewish people.
Juliet Markowitz
Jan 20
Of all the days in the itinerary, I looked forward to today the most. The experience did not disappoint, ascending Masada and floating in the Dead Sea was incredible beyond expression. Visiting the Dead Sea and experiencing the amazing natural phenomena of 30% salinity held many surprises, as while we knew that we would float, the actuality of being suspended in the top layer of a sea no matter which way one turned, twisted, or kicked was unique beyond our imaginations. We used our feeling senses to great extent at the Dead Sea, and at Masada, our vision, both of the present and the past. Learning the story of Masada, the ultimate suicide of the Jewish people to escape enslavement by the Roman army was enlightening. Our tour guide, Chen, explained that many did not learn from this example of what many term “Jewish heroism”, and have repeated similar mistakes of being too radical in the last 15 years, alluding to the assassination of PM Rabin. We are now en route to the Bedouin tent, where we will be met by traditional hospitality and a rumored lavish feast. Israel has exceeded my expectations and the connection I feel to this beautiful country I could never have predicted.
Alexandra Cozell, Goucher ‘12
Jan 20
It’s hard to describe just how floating in the Salt Sea (Its Hebrew name) differs from any other body of water in the world. There is no discernible difference as you begin to wade in. I had come expecting some pudding-like substance, thick with mud, but the cold, clear liquid lapping at my tired feet was unmistakably water. Not to be repetitive, but I have to emphasize here just how clear that water is. I have surfed Malibu, snorkeled at the Great Barrier Reef, and swum at Paradise Island in the Bahamas, but never have I encountered a more pristine, crystalline transparence than these mineral-rich waters. I had waded in about 30 feet or so, and still it felt as if I were just walking in water. Nothing special. Time, I felt, for the acid test. I let my feet fly upwards in front me, bracing myself for the familiar feeling of a backfloat, but … here is where words fail. One feels more naturally buoyant in the Salt Sea, as if it is not the water but one’s own body suddenly generating this magical sensation. There are no metaphors adequate to compare this to a familiar situation. One can sit, even stand in the water, though the very visible salt-encrusted floor of the sea is meters down, and the cool liquid will never rise past your armpits; no treading is ever necessary. I floated on my back and my front, spun and swirled and reveled in the sudden glorious freedom of movement. Having always been somewhat overweight, to suddenly feel weightless, even graceful, was an indescribable emotional experience. To play in this fantastic sea with friends, mastering movement, learning and developing individual styles for speed or for slow, peaceful movement, adapting to the environment but never, ever, taking it for granted, with its supranatural nature always at the front of our minds, was an experience to treasure, and one which I am eager to someday repeat.
Max Singer, Hofstra ‘11
Jan 21
Last night we arrived to the Bedouin tents in the Negev after an already long day of visiting the Dead Sea. When we arrived, the Bedouins welcomed us in their hospitality tent with tea and coffee. The tea was amazing, some of the best I have had and the coffee was really good too. The Bedouin showed us how he grinds up the coffee beans and makes rhythmic music out of the process. He offered the chance for some of us to try it out, and a few of us caught on very quickly. Then he explained their customs to us, and it was interesting to see and hear how they lived. Finally we had an amazing Bedouin feast! Think: sitting on the ground, under a tent, around great food with great people and you can imagine only a fraction of the experience. They served us a whole chicken that we had to pick apart ourselves. And pick it apart I did. I made sure to find every last piece of chicken that was offered, and all that remained were bones. If you don’t believe it, there is video proof that shows the fruits of my labor.
After dinner, and with full stomachs we went outside and had some time to reflect on our own. The stars in the Negev were amazing, nothing like what we can experience back at school. The sky was so bright because of the stars, and it was humbling to think about how small we really are, and that there are things that are so much bigger than ourselves.
After sleeping in the Bedouin tent, we woke up early so that we could ride some camels. On my way to breakfast however, I heard some funny noise coming from them. When I got to breakfast I imitated the sound to Marissa, and for the rest of the day we laughed about it. The experience of riding the camels was amazing. We were paired up with other people so that we could all fit on the camels. Getting on and off a camel is interesting, to say the least. It’s not every day that you get to ride a camel. While riding the camel, I kept thinking about how people for thousands of years have been using these animals for their needs, and it was really cool to be a part of that.
This trip has been a wonderful experience so far, and I have had an amazing time experiencing the beauty and wonder that this country has to offer.
Brandon Macarz, Hofstra ‘10
Jan 24th
This entry is solely a reflection of everything that has happened. Just a few hours ago I made the biggest change in my life, became a Bat Mitzvah. It was the most hear filling, balancing, and whole experience of my life. Because I was raised by an interfaith family I was never expected to become anything, therefore I did not. Once I started learning the Jewish culture I realized that it felt only natural to become a Jew.
The past few days with the soldiers arriving and then leaving was a whole experience in and of itself. I have never felt so loved and have given love so selflessly to a group of strangers. Their joy, laughter, and sense of humor only made me love them more, but the one thing that touches something so deep inside of me was the mere fact that they did not care about my past or what kind of family I was from, they only saw my personality and I only saw theirs. It was simply beautiful. Every part, second, minute, and moment I spent with them was magical, despite how corny that sounds.
Rachel Lipkin, Hofstra 2012
I am descended from a long line of atheist Jews. I was never encouraged to attend Hebrew school or have a bat mitzvah ceremony. Growing up, my involvement in Judaism was essentially limited to lighting the menorah in December, looking for ineptly hidden matzo on Passover, and staying home from school on Yom Kippur. If I had been asked ten years ago what being a Jewish adult meant, I would have seen it foremost as an end to the traditions of my childhood. Celebrating my Bat Mitzvah with Birthright, among a community of new friends, has given new meaning to my inclusion in the Jewish community as a whole. I have a new respect for what I once considered a lack of Jewish upbringing. The choice to have a Bat Mitzvah now feels more intentional and meaningful to me, and I am so grateful to the people who have supported me in this decision and with whom I shared this experience.
Melissa Tillery ‘09
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Jan 21
When we entered the Beit She’an National Park I had no idea what to expect, but what I saw there was something that I had always wanted to see. The theatre ruins were what I have always learned about in Drama classes, but I had never seen the real thing. Standing on the stage and looking out into the audience made me realize once again why I love theatre and how much I miss being in a production. There are so many other beautiful places in Israel and I cannot wait to come back here someday soon.
Dani Fredane, Hofstra ‘09
Jan 22
The morning started out with a wine tasting at the Golan Heights Winery. First we were shown a brief video explaining how the wine is made and the different types of delicious wine. The guide brought us into the building where there were barrels and machinery to make the wine. After seeing how the wine is made, we got to taste various types of the Israeli wine. We tasted a white wine, red wine, and dessert wine, which was my personal favorite. Everyone enjoyed the delectable wine so much that almost every person bought at least one bottle of wine to take home with them.
Amanda Rubinstein Hofstra ‘12
We were given a tour of the Golan via Jeeps. If the wind had been any stronger I would have blown away, or would have had to tie myself down. Our guide brought us to a bunker used by Palestinian troops during the Yom Kippur war and others. He drove us down roads which on either side were lined with mines that had not yet been exploded. It was amazing to be guided through a terrain whose history was still resonating. Chen told us epic stories of his participation in the war, and his father’s participation in the wars before that, which made the rocky hills and mountainous landscape come alive. It was a beautiful day and I can’t wait until I can visit again.
David Karpay, Goucher ‘11
Jan 23
Note from Staff: Today was a day of choice. Each participant had the opportunity to choose from three options in order to get an in depth taste of something special Israel has to offer. The options included a visit to the old city of Akko (Acre in English), an Arab/Jewish encounter with Israeli Arab high school students, and an impressive hike up Nachal Jilaboun.
Marissa and Yona!
It was a day of choice our bus had and I decided to take a look around the ancient city of Akko with all 3 busses. It started off with an hour drive which I slept through from being so tired from the amazing schedule Birthright organized. When we arrived, the bus was woken up quickly by the movie they showed us that made everyone jump out of their chairs from the volume being on the highest. Next, we took a tour of the jail cell and the gallows allowing you to feel as if you were there long ago. Moving on we went underneath the jail which showed a beautiful hall that was used to gather crusaders. Following the tour everyone went on their own for free time to shop in the Arab market which had an array of selections to look at. One of the popular things to get was scarves which many girls bought for a decent bargain. The aroma of fish filled the air as you walked down the pathway bumping into the crowded amount of people while bumping your head on the garments sold by the vendors above. Many people lined up for some Falafel and Humus while others tasted the many fruits and vegetables. In the end it was interesting to see how people shopped thousands of years ago and how they still do today, compared to the strip and mega malls in America.
Gregg Albaum, Hofstra ‘12
Jan 24
Having to choose between three equally amazing day excursions, rather than taking a picturesque hike past waterfalls or witnessing a heated discussion between Israeli Jews and Israeli Arabs, I decided to travel to Akko, a famous port city where remnants of history remain. I desired to discover and interact with local vendors, kids on the streets, and to feel the market’s pulse. Once our guided tour ended, we were able to roam the city’s streets freely, and so I was off on a solo journey to get a true sense of everyday life. Akko’s narrow streets, cluttered alleyways, and overlapping shops coalesce to form a photographer’s playground. For the most part, as you are walking through the marketplace, the scents are overwhelmingly appetizing as little old wrinkled women wearing bright headdresses line up freshly baked sweets & breads from raw ingredients on display. Not only does one ingest the scent of delectable treats, but the aroma of spices swifts through the air along with the occasional smell of raw fish. As I was wandering aimlessly I encountered a handsome group of young hip Israeli professional photographers, which made me assume that there was a famous event or person within sight. However, after inquiring, I was humbled by their response that they were merely in search of capturing the everyday routines of these fascinating and unique people, people that regularly inhabit the marketplace. I skipped from one medium to the next, from collages of scarves and skirts to collections of Israeli CDs and acoustic instruments. Along the way I entered a tiny box shaped hookah shop where I was kindly welcomed by a resting father and his teenage son. They welcomed me and I gladly sat with them, sipped coffee, and listened to a heartfelt description of Akko’s meaning. Resuming my quest, I turned down a random alleyway to hear a thundering fundamentalist sounding voice echoing throughout the mosque and into the streets. Rows of men sat stiffly on their knees and obediently stared in my direction as I spied in through the barred windows. Next door barefoot Arab women were segregated from their male counterparts as they too contently stared and prayed. Perhaps due to the intimidating sound of this fervent voice, I felt as if I had just stumbled upon a secret operation in process. Wanting to capture these people’s devotion, I snuck in the back door, snapped a quick shot of the kneeling ladies, and sprinted away into the mazelike passageways of independent goods [as if they would chase me, scold me for my disrespectful behavior, and force me to delete my photo].
Jacquelyn Kingsley GWU ‘11
The following day was Saturday, our day to become Bar Mitzvahs. Because my voice is not naturally strong on a good day let alone while I’m suffering from a nasty head cold, I was a bit nervous to sound congested and croaky as a frog while individually reciting the Aliyah in Hebrew in front of all of my new Bus 830 friends. After receiving excellent rhythmic coaching from Dani, I felt much better and learned that it wasn’t about the strength of my voice but more so about how I felt when the words left my mouth. Standing in front of Marissa, Yona, and the entire Bus 830 crew, I felt very proud and surprisingly at ease with myself as I sang the Aliyah’s foreign words. Not only did I feel content for choosing to follow through with my Bar Mitzvah, but I felt so proud for developing such strong and distinctive relationships with everyone I had met. I couldn’t have been happier with having anyone else present at my Bar Mitzvah rather than this new family of mine. And so, while I had always regretted not being raised to follow Jewish traditions and felt bad about not having a Bar Mitzvah, on this day I felt so fortunate, because this day marked the start for a new beginning for me. From this point forward I want to involve Jewish principles into my life and the lives of my loved ones, as I do feel a spiritual connection to Israel and the concept of Judaism as a family rather than religion. During my time here it has been so revitalizing to sing Jewish tunes, to eat Jewish foods, and to reflect on Jewish life.
Jacquelyn Kingsley GWU ‘11
Jan 25
This morning, we had the opportunity to discover a charming little town called Rosh Pina. Our guide and good friend Chen shared some stories with us about the history of this lovely country as we sat on the cobblestone streets of the town, overlooking a lush valley and surrounded by a vast array of flowers. The smell of lavender filled our nostrils as we re-lived Israel’s past, a past which has become such an integral part of each of our lives as we’ve made our journey this week. After visiting a stunning old synagogue, with some free time to wander, I found myself in a tiny shop that can only be described as Nirvana. I felt as if a time machine had swept me back to the mid 1960s. Soothing jazz music filled my ears, and a shy elderly gentleman welcomed me inside his humble abode. Two of the Bus 830 ladies had already discovered this incredible place, in which the gentleman, Mika, has found his true heaven. Sharing a striking resemblance to Frank Zappa, Mika was born in Morocco, and made his way to Israel over 50 years ago. He is quite the music man, having played drums and guitar throughout the world. He offered us passion fruit juice, which was absolutely delicious. Sitting in this little place, surrounded by hand-made leather shoes, pictures of Mika’s days of old, and the most relaxing atmosphere I have ever experienced, I truly felt at peace. It was hard to leave and say goodbye, but this memory will stay with me for some time. Not many words were spoken, but words were not necessary… my connection with this charming man, having met by chance due to my curious wandering, went beyond mere conversation. We have been told since day one on this trip that all Israelis, all Jews, are family. And although I never met this man before, and may never see him again, I feel that I have found a soul-mate, a true friend, and a long lost family member here in this charming town of Rosh Pina.
Dan Sterdt, Goucher ‘10
We spent the early afternoon in the artsy city, Tzfat. Tzfat also happens to be a major site for Jewish mysticism where great Kabbalists lived and studied. First we visited the Abuhav Synagogue, which was the most gorgeous temple I have ever seen. It was not a traditional temple; rather it was full of bright colors, engraved ceilings, and chandeliers of all shapes and sizes. Then we were given free time to explore the art district, containing endless galleries and jewelry stores. Most of the group purchased unique trinkets and treasures to bring home. The large amount of paintings and sculptures made walking the streets of Tzfat seem like touring a museum.
Sheryl Rosenberg, Hofstra ‘11
After spending the day in Tzfat, our tour leader, Chen, kindly invited all of us to his house right outside of Lebanon. It was a BEAUTIFUL house and Chen and his wife were so gracious to have us! Chen’s wife had a nice array of coffee, sodas, cakes, and chips set out for us (and we devoured it in probably five minutes?). We were given some free time to relax, talk, and explore the house. It is located on the top of a hill and has a gorgeous outlook of Lebanon and Northern Israel! After some mingling, the group sat down in the living room to listen to some personal and very touching stories from Chen. He first told us about the risk of living so close to Lebanon. They have a bedroom in their house- a room with blue walls, a nice big bed, lots of games, and a computer. Yet this isn’t just any room, it is a bomb shelter. It is made with thick concrete walls and stocked with extra food and water so that when a siren sounds (indicating an incoming rocket), Chen and his wife have 15 to 30 seconds to run to this safety spot. During the 2006 war, Chen and his wife had to stay in this shelter for 34 days while rockets were being shot literally right outside of their door. I got chills down my spine trying to imagine the fear of running for your life in such a short amount of time. It is something right out of the movies yet it is very realistic in Israel. Chen also told us a second story about his time in the army which was very emotional and empowering. Unfortunately, this one is private!! So you’ll have to ask us about it when we get home!!
Charlotte Evans, Towson ‘09
Friday, January 23, 2009
Northern Exposure
Shabbat Shalom from
The past 2 days have been amazing, as we’ve explored the northern region of
The wine smoothed over our bouncy ride up
It was very windy but we had fun bouncing around in jeeps as we listened to Israeli music and heard the history of
We said goodbye to our Mifgash soldiers, while drinking ‘shoko b’sakit’ (Chocolate milk in a plastic bag) for the first time. Everyone shared something they had learned from the encounter, we shared our contact info and promised to keep in touch. As we hugged goodbye, there were more than a few tears.
That night we shopped in Tiberias and practiced our haggling skills (essential in
An Arab-Israeli encounter, a nature hike, or a tour of the Crusader fort-city of Acre (
A number of students went to a moshav (cooperative settlement) called Shorashim where Arabs and Jews live together. They heard historical background and context around the history of Israeli Jews, Arabs, and Palestinians, and got a chance to dialogue one-on-one with Israeli Arabs. One of our students called it “the highlight of my trip.”
Others chose the hike in Nahal Jilaboun, which was enervating and beautiful. The third group enjoyed clambering over moats and bridges and seeing the walls of the crusader city at Acre on the
Tonight, our bus celebrated 10 members taking on Hebrew names. 12 are having a bar or bat mitzvah ceremony tomorrow on the shores of the
Thursday, January 22, 2009
A Tale of Two Seas
Pictures will hopefully be posted tonight on our blog at http://goucherhillel.blogspot.com/.
We’d like to reiterate as there has been some confusion: our flight lands on Tuesday January 27, El Al flight LY001 landing at JFK at 6 AM.
Members of our bus agree: the trip just keeps getting better. At the front of the bus, we have placed a chatterbox where students can place anonymous comments. One recently read: “I have fallen in love with Israel.” The experience of this trip has been different for every student, but each and every one has been able to share in the feeling of discovering a land that seeps history, home, and ancestry from each and every nook and cranny.
Tuesday started off with our group leaving Jerusalem. We were called back in to the hotel to make a special Birthday video for Lynn Schusterman, one of Hillel and Birthright’s biggest supporters. Then we headed down to Masada, the desert fortress of the 1st-Century King Herod, on which a group of brave Jewish zealots made their last stand against Roman legions, eventually taking their own lives. We ascended the mountain via cable car, and met a family that included two Birthright alumni on the way up. At the top, we learned about the history of Masada, and pondered what choices we would have made in the place of the Jewish zealots on Masada. Group members also learned about the methods of water collection and distribution for the fortress, and spent time looking at beautiful desert birds.
The afternoon was spent lounging at the lowest place on earth, the Dead Sea. There is nothing quite like coating yourself in Dead Sea mud or floating on the warm briny water. Those who had made the mistake of shaving that morning screamed for a moment or two, but generally got along fine. We had a relaxing lunch and marveled at how smooth our skin was as a result of the mud.
That evening Bus 830 had a real treat – authentic Bedouin hospitality at Kfar HaNokdim in the Negev desert between Masada and Arad. The Bedouin host taught us how to use the mortar and pestle for coffee to rhythmically sound out a beckoning call. As always, the Goucher students were ready and willing to jump into the fray, trying their own hand at sounding out the rhythm. We were served strong coffee and sugary sweet tea, and then later had a full delicious (kosher!) Bedouin dinner. We sat on the carpeted desert floor and ate with our hands from trays – pita, the best hummus ever, and barbecued chicken and beef. We took advantage of the beautiful desert night to go off, each on our own, to contemplate and reflect. What followed was a powerful group conversation about spirituality. Many students were moved to share their own personal experiences, a testament to the trust and friendship that had been built over the first five days of the trip.
On Wednesday morning, many students woke up for sunrise. We started the day off right with a ride on the ‘ship of the desert’ – the camel! Everybody took the opportunity to name their camel – this would be the first of a few times when our students connected with animals on this day. We got on our ship, Bus 830, and rode north to the oasis at Ein Gedi, west of the Dead Sea. We saw a transition to a beautiful green in the middle of the desert, a result of the natural springs at Ein Gedi. On a hike and a great picture of our Goucher group (to be posted soon), we saw the goatlike ibexes, and the gopher-like hyraxes walking nimbly on the cliffs. Our students again connected with their animal natures, demonstrating hyrax mating rituals while singing “The Lion Sleeps Tonight.”
The next ride was about two hours as we travelled all the way to the Galilee area in the north. It was striking how the whole countryside could turn from sand to lush green in the space of an area the size of Delaware. We stopped to tour Bet She’an, which was a Roman and Byzantine regional capital. At sunset we transitioned to modern Zionist history as we took in the Kinneret Cemetery, one of Israel’s most beautiful resting places among the trees at the shore of the Kinneret (Sea of Galilee). There we saw the graves of many of the first founders of the yishuv (pre-State settlement of Israel), who often left home and family behind in Europe to live in kibbutzim in a strange and wild land. We saw more recent graves like that of Naomi Shemer, Israel’s most famous singer-songwriter, who wrote “Yerushalayim Shel Zahav (Jerusalem of Gold)” and “Al Kol Eleh (on all these)”. Finally, our tour educator Chen shared his own family’s story, and showed us where his father, uncle, and grandparents are buried. It was a powerful moment to see how this place, these people still mean so much, as the sun showed its full color on the waters of the Galilee.
We made our way to the Ramot resort on the other side of the Galilee, where our group will be staying for the remainder of the trip. Our students wrote letters of support and encouragement to Israeli soldiers which our Mifgash group of 7 Israeli soldiers was bringing back as they left today. The time has flown by, but our bus has forged strong bonds with Hila, Shani, Sagiv, Nir, Alex, Yana, and Tammi. In the wake of the Gaza conflict, our group was able to understand a bit more about what it really means to be an Israeli, and how much these young people, the same age as our Goucher students, are like them.
As the week draws to a close, many of our students are getting ready to celebrate a Bar or Bat Mitzvah this Shabbat with our group. Taglit offers a special opportunity for students who would like to choose a Hebrew name or celebrate Jewish adulthood to do so within the context of the trip. As many as six Goucher students will be celebrating bar/bat mitzvah by learning a little of the week’s Torah portion and the Torah blessing, and contemplating the next steps in their Jewish journey. The entire bus is supportive and can’t wait to celebrate their friends’ special moment in this special place.
Signing off for now – we’ll have a short update tomorrow afternoon.
Monday, January 19, 2009
A day to give back, remember, and watch
Coming from Philadelphia, the connotations I couldn’t help associate with the term Old City were of the Old City I knew, with its red cobblestones and colonial-era buildings. I knew that the Old City in Jerusalem would be different, of course—old in Jerusalem goes much farther than America or many other countries, to say but the most obvious disparity. However, the limestone underfoot provided familiarity for me. I was surprised by the enclosed quality of the city; one may find spots in Philadelphia’s Old City where one feels surrounded by the past, but in Jerusalem walls surround you on every side, and one might see it as a single structure; but it’s hard to say where this structure ends, as private residences certainly exist but the preponderance of limestone connects them all. At times it felt like a wonderful maze.
Yet I thought the city seemed somewhat stuffy. I sought a truly open area and could only look to the sky. Maybe it was being part of a tour group; maybe it’s indicative of differences between the American and Israeli perception of space.
--Max Liebersohn
Today's update is posted by Yona Gorelick, Engagement Associate and Taglit Staff Extraordinaire:
Monday
We slept in this morning: wake-up wasn't until 8 a.m.!
We did a tzedek project, packaging food at Hazon Yeshaya. The organization is, I think, the largest distributor of food to the needy in Israel. It's got a $14 million annual budget, 96% of which comes from private donors. In addition to serving hot meals and distributing food staples for people to use on their own, Hazon Yeshaya runs a free dental clinic for individuals living below the poverty line and offers job training in multiple fields. They have a 90% success rate getting graduates of their job training programs off of welfare.
We prepared packages containing oil, sugar, canned goods, and other essential items. We formed an impressive assembly line and bucket brigade of sorts, transporting bags from the assembly station all the way into another building. We worked at a record pace, more than filling two crates the size of small cars with the bags of food. All the while, members of Bus 830 sang ("Sweet Caroline" and "Men in Tights" were especially popular-or maybe they're just the two tunes that are still mercilessly lodged in my brain!) and joked around. Several students remarked upon how good they felt about the invaluable service they had performed. It was wonderful to have an opportunity to give back while we're enjoying the incredible gift of a Taglit-Birthright Israel: Hillel trip.
Upon leaving Hazon Yeshaya, we made our way to Yad Vashem, Israel's Holocaust memorial museum. Our guide was exceptional. English was his 4th language, and he introduced our group to both personal stories and universal, almost unanswerable questions. Students had the opportunity throughout our time at the museum to share personal connections they had to the material we encountered.
Back at the hotel, we had a delicious dinner & a few minutes to rest before our evening program. We visited Ma'ale, a Jewish film school in Jerusalem. A young filmmaker introduced three short films to us (including what he called the first Israeli Western, which he had directed), and we got a close glimpse of various aspects of life in Israel through the camera lenses and the group conversations we had after each film.
Tomorrow morning we're heading south, visiting Masada & the Dead Sea, and spending tomorrow night out in the desert! The group energy is high and we are squeezing every bit out of our time here in Israel.
We have decorated the bus with colorful, handmade Hebrew-word-of-the-day posters, erasable marker creations on the windows, tiny Israeli flags and some tinsel from the U.S. Our count-offs are getting faster and more enthusiastic, and we've added a seven-word sentence to make sure our new Israeli group members are present: "Kvutzat Taglit Shmona-M'ot Shloshim Hi Sababa Tutim!!" The sentence more or less translates to "Taglit group 830 is cool strawberries!" We're encountering new things every day.
Signing off for now!
Sunday, January 18, 2009
Sunday Update
Sunday morning we awoke to a packed day. We gathered together to drink a little wine and eat from the longest challah any of us had ever seen on the beautiful Tayelet overlook. As we saw Jerusalem for the first time laid out before us, we said a shehecheyanu , a prayer designated for commemorating important occasions. Then we got a chance to meet with our mifgash participants – 7 Israeli soldiers came onto our bus in full uniform, to spend the next five days with us. All of our assumptions about Israelis were broken down, as we broke up into groups to get to know them – we began to find that they are so much like us, in so many ways. Together we toured the crooked alleys and history-steeped corridors of Jerusalem’s Old City, and we ascended Mt. Herzl, Israel’s national military and political cemetery. We saw the graves of the famous leaders – Herzl, Rabin, Golda Meir – and we heard from our tour guide, Chen, about his own friends who were buried there. It was hard to see the yet-unmarked gravestones of those who have died in Gaza in the past two weeks. We ended the day on a lighter note, shopping for great finds on Jerusalem’s main commercial plaza, Ben Yehuda Street.
Tomorrow, we will continue to explore Jerusalem, giving back at a soup kitchen on MLK day, and remembering the greatest tragedy of our people’s history at Yad VaShem, the Israeli Holocaust Museum.
Next Update: Tuesday Morning
Friday, January 16, 2009
Our Students have landed safely in Israel and are now arriving in Jerusalem for Shabbat!
The flight landed on time for our students
to change money, pick up Israeli cell phones
and scarves from Taglit - Birthright Israel.
They may not need them - it's hazy and 72
degrees in Jerusalem. Bus 830 is on its way
to spending an amazing Shabbat in Jerusalem together!
Next Update: Sunday Morning